Sand dunes, Kauri forrests, gannet colonies, beaches galore enroute to Auckland

March 13, 2009. Well, here we are in Auckland, in the ever-so-funky Parnell district awaiting our flight tommorow. It is the time for Bob to do his precision re-packing and organizing and for us to lament how we brought too much stuff. God, those hiking boots, gaiters and camping equipment take up a lot of room. The only thing we didn't bring was an umbrella, and for the first time on this trip it would be handy. Auckland is like Vancouver in the summer - If you don't like the weather...But we're on vacation in a beautiful place with no agenda, so we just duck into a coffee shop when a shower begins. In 1990 there was no 'coffee culture' in NZ, many restaurants served only instant coffee! And if you found real coffee, there was no such thing as refills. Yikes! Poor Margaret, the only coffee-drinker at our house, was frantic. Now, however, God's Own Country (they call it "GodZone" with far more irony than George Bush uses) has hopped on board fully, completely, and apparently there are more espresso machines per capita here than anywhere on earth except Tuscany, and a good cuppa is never far away, even in the NZ equivalant of Podunk or Bug Tussle. The tiniest convenience store (they are 'dairies' here) carries a wide selection of beans and ground coffees. Doubly cool, because we're travellling with our bullet-proof Bodum plunger and every place we've stayed has had good kitchen facilities!

When we were here in 1990 we didn't manage to get north of Auckand, so was one of our resolutions for this trip. The last blog dealt with our time on the east coast and Bay of Islands; this is about the west coast. We've really enjoyed the west side of the north island. We got off the major roads, and we found a great bike trip west from Bay of Islands and south, great pavement, little traffic, rolling roads with great scenery around every corner. We took in the great sand dunes at Omapere, hundreds of feet high, walked for miles along the beach at Aranga, visited what's left of the majestic Kauri forests in parks. We also took in a very worthwhile museum at Matokhe that depicts the history of these majestic trees, the forestry operations associated with them, and ultimately the decline of the forests and the preservation of the remaining ones.

From there we went to Helensville, a small community west of Auckland and stayed in a neat backpackers that was the first hospital in that community. We were able to visit a few more beaches, including Murawai, with black sand, and we saw a gannet colony perched on a very windy and precarious cliff (a lot more interesting than it sounds). We looked at some awesome real estate (and dream - funky beach houses with windows from here to there over miles of flat sandy beaches, waves crashing in, sunsets, yadayada).

This brings us to the end of our blogging. We have kept a detailed diary and taken hundreds of photos, and we will be creating some sort of picture book when we return to Winnipeg and the normality of our lives there. We`ll only inflict it on those who ask.

Bob and Margaret

Lake Waikaremoana Track February 22 - 26/09 (images attached)

We very much enjoyed this track however did not find it as easy as we had thought it may be. The first day amounted to a 600 meter climb over a huge bluff to get to our first hut. The wind, the roots and the erosion made us work very hard that first day. The other factor is that our packs were filled for the four day hike and considerably heavy. The views of the lake were outstanding that day and we kept meeting folks along the trail that we would get to know better that evening as we dined from our freeze dried gourmet dinners (just kidding). This time we both had the luxury of bringing a book to read and while we did that for a limited time each day we often spent hours chatting with fellow hut mates on their travels, their lives and stories about our own lives in Canada.

The second day amounted to a huge descent and walking along the lake to our next hut. Again the challenge of going down some very steep hills is quite difficult for us prairie kids. The next couple days were along the lake shore more or less but always with up and down a couple hundred meters here and there. None of it was boring and we had a wonderful time and met so many neat folks.

After leaving this very remote area we drove to Gisborne and stayed at a B & B and walked along the ocean and bought ourselves a few used books in the local library. Even with all of our activity we still read a lot.

From Gisborne we drove to the Bay of Plenty and found true paradise. We rented a cute little cottage in a village called Omokoroa located near Mt. Taurangi. I am in love with this place and would buy property in a flash. We stayed there for five days and hiked through an old gold mine area in the Karangahake Gorge and ate at a great winery nearby called Ohinemuri Estate Winnery. http://www.ohinemuri.co.nz/ We also climbed Mt. Taurangi and then played in the waves. Truly awesome.

From there we have come to the Bay of Islands and have visited with some folks we met through a Wpg friend. We had a lovelyy dinner with them and today we went on a cruise and saw about 70 dolphins. They were so playful and swan along side our boat and we felt blessed. Bob had signed up to swim with them but they had babies so that wasn't possible. Seeing them was enough though. We got dropped at another village called Russell (one of the oldest NZ settlements) and hiked arond there and then came back to Paihia via ferry. We also got to walk and visit the Waitangi treaty grounds where the treaty between the Maori chiefs and the British govt was signed in 1840.

Tommorow on to the west side to see the giant kauri forrests and think about heading to Auckland to catch our plane on March 14. More later.

some shots along Abel Tasman trail

Here are a few shots along our day hike in Abel Tasman. We are now in the Bay of Plenty area and will do a complete blog in the next day or two. M

Wellington and points north

We drove off the ferry in a heavy rain, and into afternoon rush hour traffic. Wellington is a very old city, and the downtown streets are very narrow and twisty. And some are one-way...always the wrong way. And steep...there were times I wasn't sure our little Nissan Sunny could make it up that hill. We knew where we needed to go, but you just can't get there from here. Eventually, nerves frayed but still in love, we parked the car in the extremely awkward tight parking lot at the hotel, vowing not to move it until we blew town. And we didn't - Wellington is a pretty walkable city. Next day dawned sunny and "fair", as they say here, and we fell in love with the town. Great meals, coffee, scenery. Saw the world-famous Botannical Gardens, reached by way of cable car, comedian Billy Connolly was fun, we had very good runs (found flat spots) and B swam at a great waterfront pool. We'd both go back.



Drove north to Palmerston North, had a nice visit with an ultra-distance cycling friend of Brian Leier, then on to the Hawke's Bay region, where we are now. The town of Napier was absolutely levelled by a 7.9 earthquake in 1931, and it was rebuilt in the Art Deco style that was hot then. We wanted to see that, but we didn't find out until too late that there was a huuuge art deco festival on - hard to find a place to stay. Very crowded, but we enjoyed it a lot. Nice to see a town that values the past.



Tomorrow, we're off to a very backwoodsy wilderness park for a 4+ day walk. We'll be staying in huts, so no need to feel sorry for us.

We arrived in Wellington today via the InterIslander ferry from south island. The boat was huge and carried 1600 passengers and 600 vehiles; and the ride was smooth. The drive to our hotel on the Terrace overlooking the water was a bit of a screamer. Ate at a great restaurant called Fidel's and had yummy pizza and beer and chatted to a few locals. This area is quite funky and we will see the Monet exhibition tommorow as well as Billy Connelly tommorow evening.

This photo is of Apple Rock taken enroute to the Abel Tasman walk. Other photos of that hike to follow. M

Kepler Track

We wanted to share just a few shots of our hike on the Kepler track that Bob described a few days ago.

Since then we have walked two legs of the Abel Tasman hike and many other short day jaunts.

We came to Nelson today and toured the museum that hosts the world of wearable art and classic cars. www.wowcars.co.nz. The wearable art has entries from around the globe and features creating art that you wear that is modeled from wood, paper mache,paua shell, copper wire, soft drink cans etc. It was a truly wonderful exhibit and Bob loved the classic cars. We also walked for hours and viewed fantastic old and new architecture.

On to Wellington tommorow. There is a Claude Monet exhibition there. Can't wait. Margaret

Hi everyone; We are in Motueka on the south island and are getting ready to hike a portion of Abel Tasman trail and then off to Wellington in a few days. We have very much enjoyed the south island and will miss it. I am attaching a few photos of the little cottages we've stayed at. The first one is Arrowtown and was very niceley located on the Arrow river. The little taupe one is in a cherry orchard at Alexander where we met Wpg friends and cycled on the Otago railway with them.

few photos of Doubtful sound

hi everyone: We did a cruise of Doubtful Sound yesterday and it was a great way to unwind from the keplar track. Today we have driven to Arrowtown nd did a small walk along the Arrow River. Tommorow we head to Alexandrea to meet Mtb. friends and cycle the Otago Central Rail trail.

Tonight we are at a Backpackers in Arrowtown and have met and chatted with young folks from around the world. I bought two wool sweaters here but it is hot and I won't need them for a few days. M

Finished the Kepler Track - WOW!!!

Day One: Climbing up up up up through forest, switchback after switchback, then finally, clear of the trees with dramatic views of Te Anau and Lake Te Anau. Another 3/4 hour and we reached the first hut. It had a tremendous view of the mountains and of the lake far below, and it was crowded with a jolly and very international crowd, including some Germans who'd carried their one-year-old up the 1,000-metre climb! Good sleep (courtesy of earplugs), breakfast then out on day 2. Clear and calm ("fine" in Kiwi-speak), and we climbed more (and more and more) and then we traversed a series of connected sky-top ridges with absolutely fabulous views in all directions over mountain ranges and the fiords. Then the trail turned and followed a ridge down to tree-line, headed for the valley in which our next hut was located. The views (and the fun part) over for the day, we dropped down seventy-nine stinkin switchbacks (by actual count). We were tired, hurtin' cowpokes by the time we reached Iris Burn hut beside scenic Iris Burn (all geographic features hereabouts were originally mapped and named by Scots - burn, tarn, tor). Many of the same folks at this hut as last night, so lots of conversation and commiseration.

Easier day Three: followed Iris Burn down to Lake Manapouri (2nd deepest in NZ at 480 metres, formed by glaciers, so incredibly scenic); nevertheless happy to fetch up at Motoau hut, much smaller than the other two, and fewer people, as some of our cohort walked to a bail-out just a way along. Swam in glacial Lake Manapouri (it was just as you'd imagine...) before supper and to bed. This a.m. a short walk to civilization, hot shower and pub lunch. Aside from the tedium of seventy-nine switchbacks back to back, this was the coolest walk we've ever done - there was a price to be paid, but the day on the ridge-tops was absolutely top-rate - right up there with Skyline trail in Jasper.

Loverly dinner tonight, then Doubtful Sound Cruise tomorrow: Boat across Lake Manapouri, then bus across a pass, tour an underground hydro station (they diverted many rivers - in this national park...- built a ten-mile tunnel with a hydro plant at the end, producing enough power for an aluminum smelter and half the South Island), and a boat cruise on the Sound, which is a long, skinny, twisty ocean fiord, formed by glaciers long ago. Pengiuns, dolphins, majesty, etc etc. Bye for now. B&M

February 2, 2009 Wow we are in beautiful TeAnau on the south island and are getting ready to embark on the four day Keplar trek tommorow. We have our hut passes and the weather isn't looking too bad so we are pumped. It is considered one of NZ's great walks if you want to check it out.

Our backpackers is lovely and is called Barnyard Backpackers and is a lovely farm setting overlooking the mtns here. The main reception bldg and kitchen are stunning and our little cabin is private, rustic and has its own ensuite which makes it nice.

Yesterday we arrived after hiking a portion of the Hump Ridge trail in the very south west part of the island. The winds were brutal and the beach walk was like being in the Saraha. Quite remote and unique though.

We are enjoying the summer fruits and vegetables; fresh corn, peaches, nectarines, potatoes and many cherries.

I bought some long johns because the elevation at the huts will necessitate them. Temp should be around 5 degrees celcius.

Saturday we will do the boat cruise on Doubtful sound and Sunday leave to meet Harry and DeeDee in Alexandra where we rent a small cottage in a cheery orchard.

Chat later this week. Margaret

walks on the beach, best waterfall and great lamb

Margaret here: Today we started with coffee and a walk on the beach just outside our hostel. Awesome but no sea lions this a.m. Saw a few yesterday though. We then ventured to some ocean caves to view at low tide and they were pretty nifty aside from the booter I got. We then hiked to majestic Mclean Falls which were worth the hike. Of course we were a bit peckish following all that and went to Whistling Frog a cafe/bar in the middle of the Catlins and had the best lamb sandwich ever. The lamb comes from the cafe owners farm. Then to burn some of that off we walked for 2 hours on Tautuku Beach and saw no one. Unbelievable. We are back now at our very crowded hostel and head to Invercargill and points west from there. Not sure where we'll be tommorow evening but probably out of the Catlins which have been stunning.

I can't say enough about the cheese, lamb, wine and beer here. M

Error Correction

We had two posting disappear into the ether. It seems we posted comments to our previous postings...here they are. B/M

January21/09 We are sitting in the Sydney airport awaiting our flight to Auckland. It is 5 p.m here and 12 midnight Wpg time so we are a bit zonked -travelling since 7 pm last night!. I think our flight is about 4 hours so we will be ready for a real bed tonight. We had an absolutely superb flight from Vancouver to Sydney. Upon boarding executive class, we took a few moments to figure out those wonderful seats (pods) that actualy recline into a bed as well as many other positions and actually provide a back massage. Shortly after we had a wonderful menu option meal complete with assorted wines and then I fell promptly asleep. Bob watched a movie and then slept about 5 hours and I slept approx 6 -7 hours. You actually wake up feeling quite refreshed and then have to amuse youarself for the remainder of the 14 hour flight. The pleasure of actually having a bed to lay down on really made the flight enjoyable. I realized that using the credit card over the years has paid off in the number of points to fly executive class.We were met by old friends in Sydney and spent a grand day with them walking, having coffee,and a fish and chip lunch at an outdoor cafe with panoramic view of Sydney harbour with sailboats and ferries; and then catching furthur amazing views of downtown before coming back to the airport. Slightly sunburned!

January 23, 2009 12:01 PM
Bob and Margaret said...
January 25, 009 we have been enjoying Christchurch and surroundings. Went to the buskers festival here two days ago. Unbelievable performances. Great beer and wine to be sampled all over NZ. Auckland was a bit tiring the first day as we had not caught up on our sleep but when we did we strolled around and saw Leonard on Thursday evening. Unbelievable performer and he was on stage for 2 /3/4 hours. Went to Akaroa yesterday on some hairy roads but it was worth the trip although the relationship suffered a bit. We had some fish and chips and found the place as beautiful as last time but more touristy. Venturing furthur south tommorow. I'm trying to attach some pictures but lost my whole entry last time so will give that a go for now. Back out to see buskers. Margaret

Oamaru to Catlins

We spent two days in Old Bones Backpackers' hostel at Oamaru. Several Km out of town on the beachfront road, overlooking the Pacific. Harry Wright and DeeDee Rizzo were there too, and it was good to catch up. We ate and drank like royalty, then drove yesterday to Surat Bay Backpackers' hostel south of Dunedin. Today we drove to local hikes to waterfalls, drop-dead gorgeous beaches and lovely pastoral views. We saw more sheep than you can imagine, including a huge pack of them being moved down the road by several dogs. It drizzled a bit, but we noted that we didn't have to shovel it...wonderful! Oh, and the colours were so saturated - really! More of the same tomorrow, including a beach-walk to check out sea lions, some sea-caves accessible only at low tide. Next day we move along the Scenic Southern Route past Invercargill, on the way to Te Anau where we will be for a week or so, including our Kepler Track hike.

We've been driving on the wrong side of the road with reasonable success, no collisions, shaking fists, quaking NZers. Wish us continued luck.

Bye for now; B&M

Happy 2009

Hi everyone: We are getting our blog together and wanted to share a photo of Rocket being left at the Munro's at xmas. He really isn't troubled at all so the NZ absence shouldn't be too painful. We are quite excited about the discovery of posting photos on our site so you can expect more of that.

Our travel agent Brigetta has made some changes to our flights but the great news is that we get to get those sleeper pods from Vancouver to Sydney , Australia. Now that we are into jan 2009 we are very excited. More soon.