Wellington and points north

We drove off the ferry in a heavy rain, and into afternoon rush hour traffic. Wellington is a very old city, and the downtown streets are very narrow and twisty. And some are one-way...always the wrong way. And steep...there were times I wasn't sure our little Nissan Sunny could make it up that hill. We knew where we needed to go, but you just can't get there from here. Eventually, nerves frayed but still in love, we parked the car in the extremely awkward tight parking lot at the hotel, vowing not to move it until we blew town. And we didn't - Wellington is a pretty walkable city. Next day dawned sunny and "fair", as they say here, and we fell in love with the town. Great meals, coffee, scenery. Saw the world-famous Botannical Gardens, reached by way of cable car, comedian Billy Connolly was fun, we had very good runs (found flat spots) and B swam at a great waterfront pool. We'd both go back.



Drove north to Palmerston North, had a nice visit with an ultra-distance cycling friend of Brian Leier, then on to the Hawke's Bay region, where we are now. The town of Napier was absolutely levelled by a 7.9 earthquake in 1931, and it was rebuilt in the Art Deco style that was hot then. We wanted to see that, but we didn't find out until too late that there was a huuuge art deco festival on - hard to find a place to stay. Very crowded, but we enjoyed it a lot. Nice to see a town that values the past.



Tomorrow, we're off to a very backwoodsy wilderness park for a 4+ day walk. We'll be staying in huts, so no need to feel sorry for us.

We arrived in Wellington today via the InterIslander ferry from south island. The boat was huge and carried 1600 passengers and 600 vehiles; and the ride was smooth. The drive to our hotel on the Terrace overlooking the water was a bit of a screamer. Ate at a great restaurant called Fidel's and had yummy pizza and beer and chatted to a few locals. This area is quite funky and we will see the Monet exhibition tommorow as well as Billy Connelly tommorow evening.

This photo is of Apple Rock taken enroute to the Abel Tasman walk. Other photos of that hike to follow. M

Kepler Track

We wanted to share just a few shots of our hike on the Kepler track that Bob described a few days ago.

Since then we have walked two legs of the Abel Tasman hike and many other short day jaunts.

We came to Nelson today and toured the museum that hosts the world of wearable art and classic cars. www.wowcars.co.nz. The wearable art has entries from around the globe and features creating art that you wear that is modeled from wood, paper mache,paua shell, copper wire, soft drink cans etc. It was a truly wonderful exhibit and Bob loved the classic cars. We also walked for hours and viewed fantastic old and new architecture.

On to Wellington tommorow. There is a Claude Monet exhibition there. Can't wait. Margaret

Hi everyone; We are in Motueka on the south island and are getting ready to hike a portion of Abel Tasman trail and then off to Wellington in a few days. We have very much enjoyed the south island and will miss it. I am attaching a few photos of the little cottages we've stayed at. The first one is Arrowtown and was very niceley located on the Arrow river. The little taupe one is in a cherry orchard at Alexander where we met Wpg friends and cycled on the Otago railway with them.

few photos of Doubtful sound

hi everyone: We did a cruise of Doubtful Sound yesterday and it was a great way to unwind from the keplar track. Today we have driven to Arrowtown nd did a small walk along the Arrow River. Tommorow we head to Alexandrea to meet Mtb. friends and cycle the Otago Central Rail trail.

Tonight we are at a Backpackers in Arrowtown and have met and chatted with young folks from around the world. I bought two wool sweaters here but it is hot and I won't need them for a few days. M

Finished the Kepler Track - WOW!!!

Day One: Climbing up up up up through forest, switchback after switchback, then finally, clear of the trees with dramatic views of Te Anau and Lake Te Anau. Another 3/4 hour and we reached the first hut. It had a tremendous view of the mountains and of the lake far below, and it was crowded with a jolly and very international crowd, including some Germans who'd carried their one-year-old up the 1,000-metre climb! Good sleep (courtesy of earplugs), breakfast then out on day 2. Clear and calm ("fine" in Kiwi-speak), and we climbed more (and more and more) and then we traversed a series of connected sky-top ridges with absolutely fabulous views in all directions over mountain ranges and the fiords. Then the trail turned and followed a ridge down to tree-line, headed for the valley in which our next hut was located. The views (and the fun part) over for the day, we dropped down seventy-nine stinkin switchbacks (by actual count). We were tired, hurtin' cowpokes by the time we reached Iris Burn hut beside scenic Iris Burn (all geographic features hereabouts were originally mapped and named by Scots - burn, tarn, tor). Many of the same folks at this hut as last night, so lots of conversation and commiseration.

Easier day Three: followed Iris Burn down to Lake Manapouri (2nd deepest in NZ at 480 metres, formed by glaciers, so incredibly scenic); nevertheless happy to fetch up at Motoau hut, much smaller than the other two, and fewer people, as some of our cohort walked to a bail-out just a way along. Swam in glacial Lake Manapouri (it was just as you'd imagine...) before supper and to bed. This a.m. a short walk to civilization, hot shower and pub lunch. Aside from the tedium of seventy-nine switchbacks back to back, this was the coolest walk we've ever done - there was a price to be paid, but the day on the ridge-tops was absolutely top-rate - right up there with Skyline trail in Jasper.

Loverly dinner tonight, then Doubtful Sound Cruise tomorrow: Boat across Lake Manapouri, then bus across a pass, tour an underground hydro station (they diverted many rivers - in this national park...- built a ten-mile tunnel with a hydro plant at the end, producing enough power for an aluminum smelter and half the South Island), and a boat cruise on the Sound, which is a long, skinny, twisty ocean fiord, formed by glaciers long ago. Pengiuns, dolphins, majesty, etc etc. Bye for now. B&M

February 2, 2009 Wow we are in beautiful TeAnau on the south island and are getting ready to embark on the four day Keplar trek tommorow. We have our hut passes and the weather isn't looking too bad so we are pumped. It is considered one of NZ's great walks if you want to check it out.

Our backpackers is lovely and is called Barnyard Backpackers and is a lovely farm setting overlooking the mtns here. The main reception bldg and kitchen are stunning and our little cabin is private, rustic and has its own ensuite which makes it nice.

Yesterday we arrived after hiking a portion of the Hump Ridge trail in the very south west part of the island. The winds were brutal and the beach walk was like being in the Saraha. Quite remote and unique though.

We are enjoying the summer fruits and vegetables; fresh corn, peaches, nectarines, potatoes and many cherries.

I bought some long johns because the elevation at the huts will necessitate them. Temp should be around 5 degrees celcius.

Saturday we will do the boat cruise on Doubtful sound and Sunday leave to meet Harry and DeeDee in Alexandra where we rent a small cottage in a cheery orchard.

Chat later this week. Margaret